| Sand
Shrimp Steps (Printable Version)
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Hook: #6 - #2 TMC 911S or Mustad S74S SS Thread: 3/0 Monocord, tan Lead Eyes: extra small or small lead eyes (can be painted w/ tan paint
ahead of time) Antennae: 2 peccary fibers Rostrum: grey fox underfur Legs:
3 pale amber sili-legs Shellback / Tail:
cream or tan swiss straw Eyes: black plastic mono eyes, medium Rib:
clear mono, fine Body: a blend of amber & cream Angora goat, dubbed Studies
have revealed a high degree of preference for crustaceans, including
Crangon Septemspinosa, the sand shrimp, to the point that sand shrimp
constituted as much as fifty percent of the striped bass’ diet in
certain estuary systems during certain months of the year.
In fact, the sand shrimp was such an important dietary item for
estuary and beachfront residing bass in the spring and summer months that
it makes me wonder why I ever bother fishing with patterns that don’t
imitate a sand shrimp! As
far as imitation goes, I didn’t see a need to reinvent the wheel, as
there were already some excellent medium-sized shrimp imitations out
there. I have found that a
slight modification of Dave Whitlock’s Softshell Crayfish is absolutely
deadly. I typically use the
fly when sight-fishing in very shallow water (knee deep or less) where
sand shrimp are common and tailing bass are not a surprise.
I tie and carry two versions with different weight lead dumbbell
eyes and lead the fish by as much as ten feet after having spotted them.
Hopefully the fly will already be on or near the bottom when the
striper encounters it and then only some slight twitches with an
occasional foot-long bump will be necessary to come tight to an explosive
skinny water stripe! |
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| Step 1 | |||||||||
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1) Using tan 3/0 Monocord and a #6 – #2 long-shank hook, tie in a set of small or extra-small dumbbell eyes with figure-eight wraps. You may want to paint the eyes with tan nail polish (let dry) before moving on to the remaining steps. |
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| Step 2 | |||||||||
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2) Tie in 2 peccary fibers (length of the hook shank) off the bend as antennae. Next tie in a clump of grey fox underfur (tan calftail, red fox guard hairs or craft fur may be substituted) followed by three pale amber sili-legs. The sili-legs should be about 2/3 the length of the antennae. |
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| Step 3 | |||||||||
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3) Attach a length of tan Swiss Straw on the point side of the hook shank, at the same tie-in point as the earlier materials. Advance the thread forward to the point on the shank in line with the hook point and attach medium black mono eyes using figure-eight wraps. |
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| Step 4 | |||||||||
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4) Make a 50/50 blend of cream and amber angora goat dubbing and dub from the Swiss Straw to just in front of the mono eyes. Tie in a 6” piece of clear monofilament (6 lb. test or so) in front of the mono eyes. |
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| Step 5 | |||||||||
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5) Continue to dub down the length of the hook shank and also around the dumbbell eyes. |
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| Step 6 | |||||||||
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6) Fold back the Swiss Straw and tie down in front of the dumbbell eyes. Rib the length of the fly, from the mono eyes to the dumbbell eyes, with the monofilament (about 8 turns or so on a #2 hook) and tie down. |
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| Step 7 | |||||||||
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7) Whip finish and pick out strands of the angora goat dubbing using a sharp bodkin. Trim the Swiss Straw tail to about ¼ the length of the hook shank. |
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| Step 8 | |||||||||
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8) Black and brown spots may be added with fine point permanent marking pens. |
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